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- “Standing with you on the summit of Mount Everest is a reminiscence I will cherish eternally,” fellow mountaineer and information Uttam Lapraki wrote in a tribute to Yukta on social media.
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The other three Nepali guides who perished on Broad Peak last week embrace Gyaljen Sherpa, best identified for scaling the third-highest mountain Kanchenjunga three times in a single season – a feat that some colleagues say deserves a Guinness World Document. “It takes a lot of money, passion and dedication to turn into an IFMGA information. This tells us so much about Pur Bahadur’s zeal for mountaineering,” says Himal Gautam, a spokesman for Nepal’s tourism department. Pur Bahadur Gurung, 37, scaled 12 of the 14 highest peaks and was one of only 100 Nepali guides licensed by the International Federation of Mountain Guides Affiliation (IFMGA). “That was the toughest task for any guide, Kili Pemba did that with lots of care,” says Gyanendra Shrestha, a government official who was at Everest Base Camp during certainly one of these climbs.
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Their fellow guides say their deaths deal a devastating blow to Nepal’s mountaineering neighborhood. But beyond these accomplishments, the six Nepalis who died in an avalanche on Pakistan’s Broad Peak final week also elevated the world’s recognition of Nepali mountain guides, or Sherpas, who had previously been seen as mere aides. Purja, a former British soldier in the Special Boat Service, started on Annapurna on April 23 and finished on Shishapangma on October 29—189 days, or six months and six days. In 2019, having summited only a handful of the 8,000-meter peaks, he got down to climb all 14 of them in a single season. But the Alpine Membership of Pakistan confirmed on Friday that the bodies of two climbers, Nadhira Al-Harthy of Oman and Pur Bahadur Gurung “Yukta” of Nepal, had been recovered. Local time on Thursday, July 30, an avalanche swept ten climbers down the mountain’s major west-facing gulley, up to a vertical mile, and a rescue and restoration mission was immediately initiated.